Anthony Bourdain born in New York City, raised somewhere between New Jersey and France. Chef, author and TV personality. A person who has forever changed our worldview.
From a chain-smoking drug & alcohol loving exposer to the reality that is The Industry to… family man.
In truth, we’ve been watching Anthony Bourdain grow up, even though he’s now in his 60’s. It’s been almost 20 years since the release of Kitchen Confidential, the book that changed the way many of us looked at the life behind the line. Followed up with over a dozen other works; cookbooks, kitchen stories, travel stories and even manga style comic books. We’ve watched him travel the globe through popular shows “Cook’s Tour”, “No Reservations”, “The Layover” and the latest CNN series “Parts Unknown”. These series touched on humanities common thread, food, delivered with a healthy dose of sarcasm, wit and untouchable intellectual prose.
Bourdain is an industry activist, challenging everything from workers rights to food waste. He has become a voice of the chefs, by the chefs and for the chefs…and we love him all the more for it.
Anthony credits his father for his passion for travel and food. The man who showed him the “pleasures of sukiyaki and dirty water hot dogs”. “He taught me early that the value of a dish is the pleasure it brings you; where you are sitting when you eat it- – and who you are eating it with – – all really matter”. Anthony’s new cookbook captures this sentiment.
“Appetites: A Cookbook” we see a softer side of Anthony, one of a family man (and he’ll be the first to say… “whatever that means”) one that speaks of the love he has for his father and the loving father he is for his daughter. But be warned…this is no mushy hearts and flowers cookbook, he’s still Anthony Bourdain!
This book ties all areas of Bourdain’s sense of family together-his immediate family; daughter, friends and the neighborhood kid to his family abroad, found through his adventures. Appetites is a fun look at Anthony at home-through smoky grease covered glasses and wanderlust…perfectly, Anthony.
We’ll be pulling one of Anthony’s favorite recipes from Appetites and recreating it in our home. A dish that truly defines his Jersey roots with being a man of the world and a man of the home…
SUNDAY GRAVY WITH SAUSAGE AND RIGATONI
Yield: Serves 4 to 6 people
• 2½ pounds oxtail, cut into pieces
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 to 3 pounds pork neck bones
• 2 pounds sweet or hot pork sausage links
• 1 large or 2 medium white or yellow onions, peeled and finely chopped
• 5 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
• 3 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
• 2 cups dry red wine
• 2 cups dark universal stock
• 2 (28-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme or rosemary
• 1 sprig fresh basil
• 1 pound dry rigatoni
• 4 to 6 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for grating
• Butcher’s twine
• Preheat the oven to 300˚F. Season the oxtail with salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven or large heavy-bottom ovenproof pot with lid, heat the oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the neck bones and oxtail, working in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding the pan, and brown on all sides in the oil. Using tongs, remove the browned pieces and set them aside on a sheet pan or platter, which will collect their juices while the remaining pieces cook. Brown the sausages and set aside.
• Once the sausages and bones have all been browned and removed from the Dutch oven, add the onion and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon so that the onion picks up the browned bits. Salt the onions a bit to release their juices as they cook.
• Add the garlic, cook for 1 minute, then add the tomato paste, oregano, and pepper flakes and cook for a few minutes, until the tomato paste is dark reddish brown and has begun to stick to the pan. Deglaze the Dutch oven with the wine and let reduce by half.
• Add the stock, tomatoes, and bay leaves. Wrap the herb sprigs in the cheesecloth and secure the bundle tightly with the twine to make a bouquet garni. Return the oxtail and bones to the Dutch oven. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Cover the Dutch oven and transfer to the oven to cook for about 2½ hours. Remove the Dutch oven from the oven, add the browned sausages, and return to the oven to cook for another 30 minutes. The ragout should be thick but still juicy.
• Remove and discard the bouquet garni and keep the gravy and sausages warm. In a large heavy-bottom pot, bring salted water to a boil. Cook the rigatoni according to the package instructions until just al dente. Drain the pasta in a colander and return it to the hot, empty pot. Toss the rigatoni gently over medium heat for about 30 seconds to dry it completely, using tongs if necessary to keep it from sticking to the sides of the pot. Ladle in as much of the warm sauce as necessary to coat but not drown the pasta. Serve the pasta and sausages together, with the extra sauce and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano alongside
This recipe is excerpted from Anthony Bourdain’s Appetites: A Cookbook